Travel and adventure blog for those looking for destination ideas and vacation planning tips.
VISITING WONDERFUL AVILA AND SEGOVIA!
Visiting wonderful Avila and Segovia is one of Madrid’s must do day trips. Both are UNESCO World Heritage sites that will capture your imagination and inspire you to learn more about Spain’s unique and illustrious history. We got to see and experience them both on an all day tour. I will share my thoughts and tips on how to get the most of this must do day trip.
Getting There – Ride in comfort and style on tour bus
There are 4 ways you can go about getting to Avila and then Segovia. By bus, car, train, or taking an organized guided tour. We chose the guided tour route as this best fit our situation. We are a family of 5 and this made sense but had it been just my wife and I we would have picked the car route. I will provide all the information you need should you want to take any of the other modes of transportation
I selected the Full Day Tour Ávila and Segovia from Madrid with Tickets to Monuments package from Trip Advisor’s Viator. It included stops at everything we wanted to see, entrance fees to the sites, and the schedule didn’t seem rushed. We paid $358 Euros for the 5 of us (4 adults, 1 teen) and left all the planning (and driving) to them. Not cheap for sure but you are paying for convenience and this tour company provided it in spades.
This is an all day tour so plan accordingly. We met at the meeting point at 8:30 am and promptly left at 9 am sharp. Our guides were bilingual (Spanish/English) so there were no issues with language barriers. They would point things out along the road to Avila and it was a fun start to the tour. They made sure to instruct us on what to expect when we got to the first stop and they passed out the listening devices.
Getting there – Train, Bus, and Car options.
For those of you with more time to explore or looking for more economical alternatives while visiting wonderful Avila and Segovia, see below.
- By Train – The national rail service is named Renfe and they offer several daily trains to Ávila. They leave about once an hour from Príncipe Pio station. Tickets can be purchased in advance on their website, or you can buy them at the station. Estimated time is 1 hour and 30 minutes, Cost is from $14.
- By Bus – Taking a bus is less expensive than the train and it also gets you there in less time. Estimated time is 1 hour and 15 minutes, Cost is from $9. Buses leave from Madrid’s South Station near the metro stop Méndez Álvaro.
- By Car – If you want to visit neighboring towns and don’t want to be rushed or tied to a schedule, then rent a car. Estimated time is a little over an hour and you will have the freedom to visit whatever city you want. I will offer a couple of tips. Make sure you have some euros for the tollways. Be prepared to walk as cars on not allowed in some city centers.
Arriving to Avila – Getting Medieval
This was day 4 of our Madrid family vacation (see days 1 & 2 here and day 3 here). Up to this point it had been all city points of interest and site seeing within a 5 mile radius of Puerta del Sol. As we left the city limits it was nice to look out the window and see Spain’s country side. Time seemed to slow down the further we got from Madrid. And when we arrived to Avila it was like being transported to another era back in time.
The tour bus makes a stop just outside the city so passengers can use the restroom, buy snacks, and take pictures. The most popular being the city sign and Los Cuatro Postes viewing area. From this vantage point you can see Avila in all her glory. The well built fortified walls are still protecting her and you could easily imagine how formidable this city might have seemed back in her day. Pro tip – DON’T forget/leave your freaking camera at your hotel like I did!
Avila – Inside the city walls
Once we got our first glimpse of the city, we couldn’t wait to travel inside the walls to explore it. Seeing the walls up close was a thrill for me. They are huge and imposing and I kept trying to imagine what it would have been like to attack this city in medieval times. Yes I used to play a lot of war and strategy games when I was younger, don’t judge me, lol.
After the tour bus parked we visited the Catedral de Avila, Basilica de San Vicente, and finally the Convento de Santa Teresa. The guide was really good at keeping the group together and providing us rich details of where we were and what we were looking at. They also gave insightful historical information and the story telling was fun. The flow was good and they did a good job of explaining and answering questions.
I’m a huge fan of all historic religious buildings. Whether cathedrals and basilicas or mosques, or temples, they fascinate me to no end. The attention to detail, the creativity and ingenuity involved, and the fact that they were made without modern tools or techniques makes it hard not to be impressed.
Avila – Lunch at Las Murallas Restaurant
There are plenty of places to eat both inside the city walls and outside. We had our lunch at Las Murallas Restaurant which is located just inside them and next to the Basilica de San Vincente. The tour company pays for a glass of wine and a tapa but that’s not going to be enough fuel for you. What you need to order is the cochinillo asado! For my English only readers that translates to suckling roast piglet, which doesn’t sound as appealing. This is why everything sounds better in Spanish 😉.
In my opinion this was hands down the best dish of our entire Madrid vacation. Just peel back the outer pig skin and get ready to experience greatness. Just pure juicy succulent pork to feast on. Damn, my mouth is literally watering thinking back on it. I have to find a restaurant in Houston that serves this dish. I promise you will not be disappointed.
Avila – So much to see, so little time
After lunch we walked around to see other parts of the city and I found myself wanting to stay and explore on my own. The tour was great, don’t get me wrong, but there is nothing like getting lost and venturing onto side streets to see what surprises are around the corner. I couldn’t take enough pictures, I wanted to capture every moment. But we had to keep it moving. We still had the Roman aqueduct and Segovia on deck. Here’s some other pics from our Avila stop.
Segovia – The Roman Aqueduct
Now this is a super cool and impressive structure from the ancient world. How ancient? Most historians believe it was built during the first century AD. That it’s still standing and in remarkably good shape is a testament to Roman construction and engineering. It’s so impressive up close that I thought about using a picture of it as the feature for this post. But then I realized that 99 out of 100 posts about Segovia have either a pic of the Roman aqueduct or the castle as the backdrop. And you can see why.
So back to the Aqueduct and the tour. We spent all of our time here at the base of it and the tour guide filled us in on the history and use of this incredible structure. It was hard not to stand in awe and admire this ancient man made achievement. After the guide was finished with her portion, they gave us a little time to roam around before heading to the cathedral.
The Segovia Cathedral
As beautiful as the Avila cathedral was, our eyes lit up when we seen the Segovia cathedral for the first time. For starters, it was huge! And because it sits on the highest ground, it stands out even more. But aside from the sheer size, it was just a gorgeous building to marvel at. Our tour guide mentioned that it is 500 years old and took around 50 years to complete. 50 years! That’s an awfully long time to build something. Unless you’re talking about Houston freeways then it’s on par.
Once you’re inside the wow factor gets kicked up a notch. The level of detail in the paintings, the layout, and the entire interior design is something else. Every room and area we wandered into was beautiful. There are massive columns that hold this cathedral up and allow it to have such majestic high ceilings. It made me wonder what it would cost in today’s dollars to create something like this.
Segovia – Other points of interest
Before I get to telling you about our last stop at the world famous castle, I want you know that this tour does allow a little time for souvenir shopping (about 20 minutes) and there are also brief stops at other points of interest in between the main sites. I won’t go into detail here because we didn’t spend any significant amount of time at them but there is plenty to explore and get into if you have the time. I snapped a few pics of these spots so maybe you can check them out.
The Alcázar of Segovia
It is said that Walt Disney himself was inspired by this castle and based his creation off of the Alcázar of Segovia’s features. You can see several pics here and judge for yourself. Being huge fans of castles and having visited several in England, Scotland, and Ireland, we couldn’t wait to tour this one. It did not disappoint. The Segovia castle looked and felt like being in a fairytale setting.
We arrived around 4 pm and made our way across the draw bridge, over the moat, and gathered inside. They had us meet at the Patio de Armas where we were divided into English and Spanish speakers. They did this because we were assigned new castle guides. The tour guide then took us to every room of the castle and provided details and commentary of what life was like back in those days. We also learned about the many kings and queens who lived in the castle and the history of its construction and use. The history is fascinating and I recommend reading up on it before you arrive.
Castle rooms and views were fantastic!
While exploring, we thought about the royalty that inhabited this place all those hundreds of years. Between the reading I had done prior to our arrival, the informative tour guide, and watching all those Spanish documentaries, it all came together as we walked room to room. My wife and I were overjoyed as we took it all in. She’s been an avid reader on English and Spanish aristocracy so of course she didn’t want to leave and frankly neither did I.
One of my favorite rooms was the room with the little kings in it. Each king had a little statue made of himself and displayed in the ceiling. I told my wife I was going to have one made of me for our bedroom. She didn’t’ think it was funny 😂.
There were several paintings to admire as well.
Final words
This is an excellent tour if you are vacationing with limited time. It covers all the main points and doesn’t feel rushed at all. That being said, I highly recommend taking at least a day and half at Avila and 2 days in Segovia. There is just too much too see and do. Our tour was 9 hours and it left us wanting more. Much more. The sun started to set on us and we had to make our way back. But we left with amazing memories and desire to come back.
One Magnificent Day In Madrid!
Our one magnificent day in Madrid covered the tranquil (and enormous) Parque de el Retiro. It was a change in pace for sure but also felt remarkably comfortable. The history and beauty of Madrid is everywhere and this park captures a small piece of what makes this city great . I’ll share plenty of pictures on this post but even the best ones won’t do these sites justice. I will add the best color commentary I can to fill in the gaps and hope you enjoy reading part two of my four part series of my Madrid family vacation.
Parque de el Retiro – Amazing park in the city
New Years Day in Madrid started late for us as you can imagine. If you read our NYE in Madrid post, then you know we wrapped up the shenanigans around 3 am. This is early by Madrid’s standards and especially so on NYE night. So needless to say, we didn’t go to bed til after 6 am due to all the noise from revelers. By noon my wife and I were up, drinking coffee, and watching/reading posts from friends back in the US who had just brought in the new year. Our kids wanted to stay in and sleep so we left them there. At 21, 20, and 15 they could manage. F them kids, lol.
Walking leisurely and taking it easy outdoors was just what the doctor ordered after a night of drinking and silliness. We headed out in the afternoon and made a beeline towards El Retiro Park. We had read about this Central Park type green space and wanted to see it for ourselves. The walk from Puerta del Sol to the park is about 20-25 minutes (depending on what entrance you use). It’s not a bad trek at all and you’ll walk through some really nice areas of Madrid.
Retiro Park – Do as little or as much as you want
As you can see from the above map, the park layout is huge. We decided to make our way towards the Palacio de Cristal which was a straight shot from the entrance. Along the paths are the usual characters you would expect. From young couples in love taking a stroll to the elderly getting their exercise in. Families and joggers alike share the spaces with ease and it was a scene of tranquility in every area we passed.
Retiro Park – Palacio de Cristal
This very cool conservatory can be found right in the center of the park and faces a cascada pond. It’s location is perfect and it sits on a slightly elevated area perfect for those midday picnics or siestas. Reading up on it’s history and design I learned that it’s shape is meant to be in the form of a Greek cross. Inside you’ll find several art pieces and other works that we found interesting and intriguing. Have a look for yourself on the slide show below. This palacio is well worth the visit.
Retiro Park – The Lake
From the palacio we explored the surrounding area and found that there is food and wine sold inside the park grounds. There are actually several terraces spread across the park so having a drink in this tranquil setting is easy to do. Great for taking a break and people watching. After a couple of glasses of wine we continued on to Retiro Lake with it’s magnificent monument to Alfonso XII serving as a perfect backdrop. From far away it looked impressive but when we finally got up close, it really stood out.
Because it was a holiday, there weren’t any rowers or paddleboats on the lake as is normal. Most of the activity around the lake consisted of people feeding the ducks and fish along the edges and lots of picture taking. There were also plenty of blankets laid out with friends gathered around enjoying each other’s company.
We were marveling at the statues and design of the whole thing. Speaking of statues, The Paseo de la Argentina (Statue Walk), is a path adjacent to the lake that is lined with statues of kings from back in the day of the the Royal Palace. This park truly has something for everyone. In addition to some of the places I mentioned, some other activities you could partake in are:
- Take a guided visit to the Parque del Retiro – Available May-October
- Rent Row boats
- Take a rollerblading class.
- Discover the park’s street artists
- Listen to a concert at the Templete de la Música
- Watch a puppet show
- Outdoor Yoga classes
After Retiro Park Day – Dinner and Dessert
We took an Uber back to the apartment after the park visit and of course the first thing we hear when we walked in, “we’re hungry!”. I swear some things never change, smh. We had been gone for several hours and they hadn’t seen us all day and instead of “hey where were y’all?, what did you see?, how was it?, etc. NADA. All about the food.
It reminded me of a trip my wife and I had taken just a couple of years back to Ireland. We were gone about 10 days and when we landed my wife texted our kids and went on and on about how much she missed them and couldn’t wait to see them. She sent this long ass multi paragraph text to the family group text and got a 2 word response. Bring Popeyes. 🤣
La Fragua de Vulcano
We had seen this restaurant on our walk to the park earlier and made a note to ourselves to return for dinner. I liked the pics of the food on the outside and the layout inside was nice. Not to mention the delicious aroma of the dishes they were putting out could be smelled while you’re walking by. Mesa para cinco I told the hostess as we huddled inside to get out of the cold.
We settled in and looked over the menu and I knew right from the jump what I wanted. Ox-Tails! Man I love me some ox-tails but back home in Houston I can only find them at soul food restaurants. And even then, they only serve them on Fridays at most of those places because it takes so long to make them. On top of that, they are expensive. So back to the menu and food.
Spanish food does not taste like Mexican food!
This we learned the hard way, lol. It’s not that we expected it would or thought it, we aren’t ignorant like that. But there is one dish that looks exactly like Mexican menudo and if you look at the description on the menu and then look at the picture of what it’s supposed to look like, you can’t tell me that you wouldn’t expect it to taste at least a little like it. Have a look for yourself. Tell me that doesn’t look like menudo!? Aside from the nasty black sausage of course. I’m not tripping.
This dish is called Callos a la Madrileña or Callos Madrilenos and we are not fans of it. The soup is very thick, the flavor is bland, and it is not spicy. Hard pass. Everything else we had was delicious and the service was legit top notch. Very attentive and friendly staff and great location was hard to beat. Just don’t order that menudo imposter and you’ll be good.
Chocolatería San Ginés – World Famous Churros and Chocolate
After dinner, of course you have to have something sweet. And you cannot visit Madrid (or Spain for that matter) without eating some churros and chocolate. And what better place to get them than at world famous Chocolatería San Ginés! I mean if you’re looking for the best, then getting them at a place that has been churning out these delicacies since 1894 is a no brainer.
My wife and I figured that since it was New Year’s Day that people would be tired and the lines wouldn’t be as long. Yep, you guessed it. We were wrong, big time. When we rounded the corner from just off Puerta del Sol we were met by a throng of people waiting line to get their churro and chocolate fix. Apparently we weren’t the only ones with the same cravings. But don’t despair at the lines as they move along fairly quickly.
Once you get to the front they will ask you if you want to wait for a table or standing spot inside or take them to go. We took ours to go. It had been a long day and the intoxicating smell of freshly made churros and chocolate was having it’s affect on us. We couldn’t wait to get back to the apartment to devour them. Our verdict can be summed up in 2 words, absolutely delicious!
Conclusion – One Magnificent Day in Madrid
Our one Magnificent Day In Madrid ended on a sweet note. It was a fitting end. We had started off the New Year on the right foot and couldn’t have been happier. It was nice to see the calm side of Madrid. We had seen her busy side, her wild side, and today we got to experience the relaxed side of the city. It was an early bedtime for us on this night. We had a busy itinerary the following day. The great and historic cities of Avila and Segovia were waiting on us tomorrow.
Beautiful Madrid! Best place to End and Start a New Year
Looking for the best place to end and start a new year? Then brush up on your Spanish and book a trip to beautiful Madrid! A city that is world renowned for it’s culture, history, and legendary nightlife (among other great things). If you want to end the year with a bang and bring in the new year exploring one of the truly great cities of the world then I hope you enjoy reading our family’s fun adventure there and plan your own visit to Madrid, the city of the “Bear and the Strawberry Tree” (villa del Oso y el Madroño).
Where to Stay // Day one – Arrival
Madrid has so many iconic places to explore and visit (both in the city and within a couple of hours drive). For this reason, we decided to keep our focus on this area of Spain during our stay. We chose an Airbnb that was centrally located in the middle of all the action and a couple of blocks away from Puerta del Sol. Our apartment was located on Calle de Espoz y Mina and surrounded by restaurants, bars, and shopping stores. Everything we needed was either on our street or within a block or two.
As I mentioned before on my Ecuador post , whenever you’re visiting a city that is as old and has such rich history as Madrid does, you have to stay in the historic district. Most of the amazing sites you want to see are concentrated within walking distance and all modes of public transportation feed into and out of this area. You can’t go wrong with staying anywhere near Puerta del Sol.
We arrived to our apartment around 2 in the afternoon, dropped our luggage off, and immediately started exploring our surroundings. Our first order of business was finding something to eat and buying power converters (yes I made that rookie mistake!). After our first Spanish meal (at Las Bravas), we walked down to Puerta del Sol to see all the preparations that were taking place in anticipation of the upcoming new year’s eve celebrations. It was a beautiful scene and the place was buzzing with people and excitement.
Day one conclusion – Tired but ready to take on Madrid!
Our kids were exhausted. I had scored $300 RT tickets per person but they came at a price of flying the scenic route (Houston to Atlanta to Miami to Madrid). My wife and I decided to drop them off at the apartment and we went to the grocery store to buy food, water, snacks, etc. for our stay. After that was off our plate, me and her went to have some wine and tapas. You have to make a stop at La Casa del Abuelo and have the Gambas al Ajillo!
We didn’t come all this way to sleep! 😎
Day 2 part one// NYE – Explore, prepare, and celebrate!
Our second day began with much more energy! Everyone was well rested and we again had perfect weather to look forward to. Fortune was on our side as temperatures were mild for that time of year. We got an early start to take advantage. The docket was full and we had a lot of ground to cover. Today we would be exploring the following sites:
- Plaza Mayor
- Palacio Real
- Templo de Debod
- Plaza Santa Ana
Plaza Mayor
This vibrant town square had plenty of old world charm and still had Christmas stands and decorations when we visited. It was once the center of Old Madrid and standing there in the plaza one could imagine how life might have been back then. We took lots of pics and then purchased some funny hats for our kids to wear later in the evening for NYE. We then made our way out through one of the many side streets that lead to/away from the plaza.
The Plaza Mayor was not far from our Airbnb but we definitely got sidetracked exploring all of the colorful calles (streets). In my opinion, this is the best way to truly discover Madrid. Since we had not eaten breakfast, we had built up an appetite for some food and found La Esquina de San Miguel. It was perfect and just what we needed to refuel and take a break. Try the Huevos Rotos if you eat there.
Palacio Real
Next on our list was the Palacio Real. This opulent and imposing palace was once the residence of the Spanish royal family. We were disappointed that we could not enter to take the tour. It was closed very early due to holiday (NYE) hours. All we could do was admire it from the outside. We went ahead and toured the beautiful cathedral that was next to it. Pro tip – Always check hours of operation ahead of time, especially around the holidays.
We continued to explore the surrounding area and it was a delightful walking experience. We went from statue to statue and picturesque side street to equally impressive main thoroughfare. As we made our way to our next stop, we took another break and sat at one of the park benches. It’s always good to slow things down and take it all in. We talked and people watched for a while before moving on to the Egyptian temple.
Templo de Debod
Our last stop this afternoon was the Egyptian temple of Debod. This shrine was originally erected in southern Egypt and gifted to Spain in the late 1960’s. It was rebuilt and installed in Madrid’s Parque de Oeste and is a must see site when you visit. All the Madrid guides will tell you to visit this temple at sunset to watch how the sun hits the pillars. There are some great pics on the internet showing this but we could not wait for the sun to set. It was NYE and we had to return to our apartment to get our late afternoon siesta in. We had to recharge for the night.
Day 2 part two // NYE night!
We took an Uber back to our apartment, cooked a meal, and rested up for what we knew would be a long night. The Madrid police had began blocking off streets heading into Puerta del Sol earlier in the morning. They were funneling people towards 2 heavily manned entrances to control the number of revelers allowed into the area. It was announced in the weeks leading up to NYE that only 7,000 people would be let into the square to bring in the new year. All of the restrictions were due to Covid.
Our plan was to be part of that 7K and watch the fireworks up close, eat the 12 grapes, and the whole nine yards. Well things turned out differently and in hindsight I should have game planned differently. Remember that our visit was in year 2 of the Covid epidemic so things were different for us.
Madrid NYE Puerta del Sol
I did some reading on the NYE traditions of Madrid peeps prior to arriving and most blogs mentioned that typically the new year is brought in at home. After this, the people head to the historic district to party well into the night/dawn. I had read those attending Madrid’s NYE at Puerta del Sol did not have to plan a strategy like people do for New York’s time square celebration. You don’t have to wear diapers or begin finding a space by late in the morning and then not move from that area until the ball drops. Most people we talked to leading up to the evening mentioned heading to PDS around 9 at night. You’ll be fine they assured us.
This year they were all wrong. All of them. The blogs, the locals, no one had a read on this particular year, lol. Every single street leading to Puerta del Sol was packed. There were people everywhere! All the bars and restaurants were full. We headed out at 8:30 to get in line and knew deep down inside that we were probably not going to make it into the main area. These people had been dealing with lockdowns, restrictions, and were denied celebrating New Years the previous year. You best believe they were going to make up for it this year.
NYE – Plan B
As you can see in our pictures above, the lines leading to PDS were long and slow moving. Luckily there were plenty of street vendors selling beer, liquor, grapes, and all assortments of glow sticks. So we all drank with our new friends in line, people watched, and eyed the clock. At around 11 pm or so I moved my family to a better location. We knew we weren’t going to be let into the main square so we partied and brought the new year in the streets with thousands of other Madrileños.
It was a fun time nonetheless. The streets were full and there was joy and relief in the air. We did the countdown and brought the new year in with spirits high. We lost track of how many beers we drank but those street vendors made sure we never lacked a drink. It was our first time celebrating New Year’s in a different country. We hugged, kissed, made videos for social media, and called some family back home. I found it funny because we were definitely feeling good and it was only 5 pm there in Houston.😎
NYE – After midnight
After bringing in the new year in the streets of Madrid and getting our fill of pics, videos, and selfies we were left with a small dilemma. What now? I’ll be honest, I hadn’t thought that one through. I wanted to party all night at the bars and clubs around but we had my 15 year old daughter with us. I told my family “let’s walk back towards our apartment and we’ll figure it out”. Along the way back, it was just an incredible scene of joy and celebration. People were literally everywhere. The cabs and Ubers kept coming like an assembly line, dropping off new revelers throughout the night. The night was just starting for them.
NYE – Dinner at 1 am
We made the safe play and decided to have “dinner” at 1 am. All of us were pretty hungry from all the walking and drinking. We selected a restaurant that was literally one door down from our apartment. A couple of last rounds and then it was grub time. The place was packed but we got lucky as some patrons were leaving just as we walked in. It was the perfect ending to what had been a perfect day and night. And though we didn’t get into the main square, we were more than content with the memories we made.
Last Minute Getaway to Cancun, Mexico!
Spontaneity is the spice of life! Truer words have never been spoken. Embarking on a last minute getaway to Cancun, Mexico is one great way to live in that spirit. I will share how our unplanned adventure started and provide tips on how you can make one happen for yourself.
How it all went down.
Our last minute getaway to Cancun, Mexico started with one little email from Scott’s Cheap Flights on a Wednesday afternoon. Cancun flights from Houston now $181 RT (taxes and all) was the headline. I thought to myself, “damn this is a good deal and my wife is off next week, it could work”. I logged on and checked it out on some airline websites and sure enough it was real. So now I’m excited and head to the bedroom to have the convo with my spouse and of course she was all in. I booked our flights later that evening for a early Sunday morning departure.
I figured I would book a hotel/resort for us the following day but work and life got in the way. Fast forward a couple of days and now it’s Saturday and our departure is 24 hours away and I don’t have a place for us to stay over there. I didn’t have time to do my research on hotels like I normally do with our planned vacations. So I decided to try something different.
I went to Facebook and typed in Cancun in the search box, then filtered by posts from friends. I looked at only posts from the last 16 months and then contacted some of them to ask questions. Price, location, crime, seaweed, etc… It was all covered, lol. With most of my concerns addressed it was now time to make a decision and book.
Panama Jack Resort
Our last minute getaway to Cancun, Mexico would be spent at the all inclusive Panama Jack resort and we couldn’t have been happier with our choice. This was our very first time staying at one of these type (all inclusive) of resorts so we really didn’t know if we were going to like it. But for what we wanted out of this short trip, it delivered in spades. We were looking for a 4 day 3 night escape to disconnect and do as little as possible on one of the prettiest beaches in the world. Panama Jack checked all the boxes.
Location, location, location
Our hotel was located in the heart of the hotel zone and right on the white sand beaches that Cancun is world famous for. We wanted to be near some restaurants and nightlife to have some options in case we got bored at PJ’s. But also not too close because we didn’t want to be in the epicenter of party central. This location could not be beat and fit the bill for us.
There were restaurants across the street and more dining choices within walking distance in either direction. If you wanted to go the big nightclubs they were a 3 minute cab ride or 20 minute walk away. We ended up not needing a plan B as we never felt the urge to leave the property in the evening. This resort provided us with everything we were looking for. I highly recommend this place!
Check in process and Covid testing
When you first arrive you will see a cool yellow sea plane with the iconic Panama Jack logo at the entrance. Upon walking inside to check in, we were offered drinks while we stood in line waiting for our turn to get our keys. Speaking of keys, be sure to get the bracelet room key. It was $10 but well worth it as you never had to worry where your key was and it was also waterproof! We swam in the pool and ocean and it always worked.
Okay back to the check in process. Your Covid testing appointments are scheduled right after you check in and they make sure you’re assigned a date within the 72 hour departure window. Testing is done across the concierge desk at the resort so no need to leave the property or worry. Oh and the test is part of your room charge. They really mean all inclusive.
Pools, Restaurants, and Amenities
This resort has multiple good bars and restaurants to choose from. Below is a list of some the fun things to find there.
- Two pools – One with ocean views & lots of poolside activities (mainly adults)
- & the other is mostly for kids
- Kid-friendly facilities such as water park with pirate ship and slides. There is also activities for teens.
- Five restaurants – Mexican, Asian, European, and Italian cuisines. And also buffets for breakfast and lunch. Our absolute favorite was Viaggo’s. Not only was the food great but they had some singer who could belt out some serious opera type tunes.
- Several bars (including a beachfront one, which was our favorite) – plus free room service
- Small spa, spacious fitness center, and free yoga
- Lively, fun entertainment staff
- Daily activities such as tequila volleyball and nightly entertainment
Our room and views
Get the beach front room! I promise that you will not be disappointed. Having gorgeous white sand right outside our door and the blue turquoise water just steps away is breathtaking and relaxing. See our pics for yourself in this slideshow below.
Stunning Sunrises
Is there anything better than starting your day waking up to the sound of the ocean as gentle waves lap the shoreline? Add a breathtaking sunrise every morning and you’ve got the making of a perfect start. We sat and drank our coffee is silence everyday just in awe of how beautiful and tranquil everything was. This was paradise. Enjoy these shots that we captured.
The Beach and Unlimited Drinks!
The beaches in the hotel zone are the best in Cancun. At the Panama Jack Resort there isn’t a bad spot to chill anywhere near the property. The tricky part is finding beach chairs or cabanas that are unoccupied during the busier parts of the day (11 am – 6pm). Fortunately for us, we are early birds and are always up at sunrise. So after we had our Cafecito, we had an early breakfast and were posted up on the beach by 10:45 am every day. Claim your chairs early! It’s like the wild west out there.
This last minute getaway to Cancun was so different than any other vacation we’ve taken in a long time. We did absolutely nothing but hang out on/at the beach for 3 straight days and loved every minute of it. Drink, play in the water, nap, and then restart the cycle until the sun went down.
Beach chairs were secured twice and then I decided to splurge on a cabana for our last day there. It was such a great time that last day and the service we received was top notch. It was so good that my wife has already warned me that it’s going to be cabanas every day the next time 😲.
Cabana Life
I was always the type that thought renting cabanas was too expensive, over the top, unnecessary, etc. Okay I’m pretty sure some of y’all are thinking “stop being cheap dude 😅” but let me add some context. We’ve never taken a vacation where we do nothing but chill. We are always out exploring, taking tours, and basically keeping to an itinerary. That my wife wanted to try an all inclusive and just relax was also different.
The price to rent a cabana is ridiculously inexpensive at Panama Jack resort. For $50 you not only get a beach front cabana but also 2 beach chairs, dedicated waiter/waitress, a stocked ice chest, champagne, and other small perks. Totally worth it and now that my wife has got a taste of it, I’m sure I’ll be on the hook for several more cabana rentals on future beach vacations.
Aside from the top notch service (more on that further below), we really enjoyed being able to take naps in the cabana while protected from the sun and having a little privacy with the curtains drawn. There’s something very cool about waking up from a day nap and realizing that you weren’t dreaming, you really are on the beach in Cancun.
Cabana service – La Mamita
We had a great cabana attendee for our stay. Not only was she super attentive but she really knew how to cater to my better half. “Algo mas mamita?” “Lo que usted quiera mamita” Needless to say they hit it off and my wife now has a new nickname. When we got back from our last minute getaway to Cancun, we had a get together with her family and she retold the story of her liking the attendant calling her mamita. We all got a good laugh out of it.
Summary – How to find your own last minute getaway
- Go to Scott’s cheap flights and subscribe. It’s free but I highly recommend the paid service. I think it’s only $40 per year but well worth it! I’ve booked Ecuador, Spain, Colombia, and Mexico trips since using their service in only one year.
- Enter your home airport but also add a few more.
- When a great deal pops up in your inbox, book it! Sometimes they only last hours.
So there you have it folks. Finding last minute deals is really not that hard. Be a little flexible and ready to book when you see something you like.
One last Cancun tip. If you must leave your all inclusive resort, take the bus! It’s only $1 USD and you can literally travel anywhere the bus lines go. They’re frequent and efficient. Just be ready to get off quick as the bus drivers don’t mess around. We used the bus to visit to Playa Delfines. I was going to write more about this but I have to end this post as mamita is needing me to run an errand. 😎
Adventure In The City of Winds: My first trip to the Land of Fire
Baku is known as the City of Winds and as the City of Eternal Flames to name a few. It has about as many aliases as Daenerys Targaryen or my Mexican cousins. But no matter what you call it, this ancient city is a jewel that sits on the coast of the Caspian Sea and I had the privilege of being able to visit this wonderful destination.
I’ll be honest here. When I was first assigned to a project in Baku, I had to do a google search because I had never heard of the city before. But once I started to read about this city’s rich and fascinating history, I couldn’t wait to get there.
GETTING THERE
There are no direct flights from the US to Azerbaijan so you’ll have to pick a 1 stop flight that best suits you. Most flights will route you through Europe or the Middle East. I chose the London stop so my team and I flew from Houston to Heathrow and then on to Baku. The layover in London was 6 hours so we each rented sleeping pods inside the airport, which by the way are freaking awesome. The pods have comfortable beds and even include a shower. Perfect to catch up on some sleep and get cleaned up before the next leg of your trip.
First Impression
Baku’s airport is pretty small for a city it’s size. There aren’t many souvenir shops either so don’t depend on this airport to bail you out if you’re looking for last minute gifts for loved ones before flying back. I had coworkers that forgot to buy them during our stay in the city and were stuck out because nothing was open on our return flight. Don’t say I didn’t warn you fam.
The drive from the airport was quite impressive. Baku is a city on the rise and you can see new buildings, towers, and projects going up everywhere. On this main avenue we were traveling on, there was some very nice architecture on display and the distinctive Heydar Aliyev Centre is along the way as well. We didn’t make any stops before getting to our hotel but only marveled at the sights looking out the car window.
Where to stay – Hilton Baku
I selected the Hilton Baku in the heart of the business district and could not have been happier with this choice. Not only is this a great hotel for business but it’s location overlooking the Caspian Sea and right on Baku Boulevard is hard to beat. You’ll be close to great restaurants, shopping, museums, and the Old Town is just a short walk away.
There’s also a nice business lounge on one of the upper floors that is perfect for unwinding after a day of meetings. To access this lounge you will need to be a Hilton Honors member of a certain level or you can pay for access when you check in. The rules and requirements to enter these lounges constantly change so inquire at the front desk upon arrival.
Indoor Pool and Eforea Spa
And while the location and business lounge is great and all, to me the best features of the Hilton Baku property were the pool and the revolving rooftop bar! These 2 amenities were/are legit. The Spa and Indoor pool take up an entire floor and offer pretty much everything under the sun. Treatment rooms, steam room, sauna, and day beds, it’s all there. They also have a Turkish Hammam, whirlpool, 18-meter indoor pool, and a fitness center with yoga room. Like I said, they have everything, including great views!
Revolving Rooftop Bar
Speaking of great views, you’ll be hard pressed to beat the ones you’ll get at the Hilton revolving rooftop bar. While impressive during the daytime, this place really shines at night. Seeing the flaming towers of Baku lit up and flickering in the distance was very cool. You’ll get to see the entire city from all sides as the bar slowly rotates. The DJ mixes a good combination of music and the layout is comfortable for chilling and taking in the views.
Visit the Old City
As is custom for me, the first stop is always to the oldest original parts of a city. Baku would be no different. We made the 1.25 mile walk to the old town in no time and were greeted by towering fortress walls and the Maiden tower. This whole area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and dates back to the 12th century. Walking around the city walls and through the gate was like taking a step back in history. I always like to imagine what these type of places were like back then when they were originally constructed.
WHERE TO EAT
Çay Bağı 145
I’ll start with my recommendation in the Old City. Çay Bağı 145 is located in front of the maiden tower and has a wonderful outdoor seating area perfect for relaxing and puffing on the Hookah. It features Azerbaijani and Middle Eastern cuisine. The food and setting were fantastic and with Baku’s pleasant evening temperatures, you can’t go wrong with this place.
Prive Steak Gallery
If steak is what you’re looking for then I got you. The Prive Steak Gallery had everything we were looking for and then some. We got to choose our own steak and they had plenty of cuts and sizes to select from. There is table side preparations of side dishes and they will also cut up any meats that you want for appetizers. In addition to perfectly grilled steaks this establishment also has live entertainment while you eat.
Fireworks Urban Kitchen
The Fireworks Urban Kitchen is located inside the JW Marriott Absheron Baku and had amazing service and ambiance. The food was good and equally as nice was the outdoor setup and views. This place is perfect for either starting or ending your evening. You can easily pass 2-3 hours here without missing a beat. Not only will I be eating here again on my next visit (which is hopefully soon) but I think I will be trying out the hotel as well.
Visit Highland Park
A must see attraction while visiting Baku is Highland Park. This beautiful area serves up fantastic panoramic views of the city and coastline. The famous flame towers can be found here as well as other monuments that bring somber reminders of a dark past. Martyrs Alley and Mosque of the Martyrs are memorials dedicated to those killed by the Soviet Army during Black January 1990. The eternal flame monument is at the top of the hill.
Day trip – The Mud Volcanoes at Dashgil
Ever since I was a kid I’ve had a fascination with Volcanoes. And as you can read on my Cotopaxi post, I like to get as close to them as possible too. That’s why when I heard about Baku’s mud volcanoes, you already know I had to go check them out. My colleagues thought I was crazy for wanting to take them out there but in the end they thought it was some pretty cool shit.
There are mud volcanoes all around Baku, but the most popular to visit are the ones at Dashgil near the Gobustan Reserve. They are located about 1.5 hour drive from Baku so you’ll need a taxi. I recommend you either get a private driver like we did or go through a tour operator. If you get a private driver, make sure their vehicle has good tires. That last little stretch from the Gobustan Reserve is like a bombed out area that never got repaired.
Once you get there the landscape changes and looks like a Martian or moon type. It’s very strange, eerie, and weird but at the same time cool as F. Another thing that I found odd is that the mud is cold. You would think that with it coming from gases underground that it would be hot. It’s hard to explain so have a look.
Useful information and tips
- Getting a single entry visa to visit this wonderful country couldn’t be any easier. Just follow the simple steps on this link. An E-Visa is typically issued within 3 working days.
- Don’t rent a car or drive in Baku. Seriously there are some crazy drivers over there. Walk or take a cab.
That’s all I have for my Baku, Azerbaijan recap. It was a short work week so couldn’t do much else. However, what I got to see and experience left me wanting more. I need a return trip to properly explore Baku and to also visit the other great places in the country.
Until next time Baku!
CLOSING OUT EPIC ECUADOR TRIP IN BAÑOS!
After getting our cultural and nature fixes in Quito and Cotopaxi, we decided on closing out our epic Ecuador trip in Baños. This small city located in the Andean Highlands is known as the adventure capital of Ecuador and for good reason. It offers up every possible type of outdoor excursion you can think of. Everything from white water rafting, bungee jumping, zip lining to walking suspension bridges, swinging from the edge of cliffs, and waterfall viewing. We chose the latter.
Where to stay – La Casa Verde (budget option)
We decided to stay at La Casa Verde for our first 2 nights in Baños. This Eco Guest House not only is a great value, but it’s location is hard to beat. Away from the noise and bustle of the main part of town and along the banks of a river, it was the perfect place for my family to set up shop. We particularly enjoyed the green hills all around us and the soothing sound of running river water to listen to as we slept. Combine that with an excellent host and great WIFI and it was hard to beat the deal we got.
Due to covid restrictions in Ecuador on our visit, tourism was down across the country and Baños is no exception. Because of this we had the entire property to ourselves! We had never stayed at a hotel where we were the only guests so that was surreal in a way. I mean, we aren’t talking about being alone in a huge property like in the movie The Shining or anything like that but walking by all the empty rooms and floors was a little weird.
Johan our excellent host.
Our host was Johan and he was a super friendly, kind, and attentive manager. He arranged all of our taxi’s, tours, and food delivery takeout. When we inquired about Covid testing, arrangements were made for someone from the red cross to come to the hotel the next day to conduct our tests. Per US rules at the time we had to produce negative test results no later than 72 hours before departure. He also had our breakfast and coffee ready every morning and even made our special request pancakes! Johan took good care of us and I recommend you give this place a try if you’re visiting Baños.
Baños de Agua Santa – Town Square
After checking in and setting up the following day’s activities, we freshened up and took a cab into town. Cabs are super cheap here and we never paid more than $3 dollars to go anywhere. We arrived at the main plaza and the town was bustling with people everywhere. The town setup was like most in Latin America and it had that step back in time feel to it . It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon and the smell of food was all around us. That would be our first order of business here.
The Cuy
We were all pretty hungry and I was on a mission to find some grilled Cuy (guinea pig) to eat. I didn’t have to look long before I found some! The look on our kid’s faces was priceless. To say they were tripping out would be a huge understatement, lol. Unfortunately, there was a long wait to get the Cuy so we had to keep it moving. It was not meant to be on this trip. My kids trying out this local delicacy was a box that would remain unchecked on this trip.
Town was pleasant but there were tour operators everywhere.
We continued to stroll through town and did some shopping along the way. Until finally, we found a restaurant we could all agree on. I asked for a table on the 2nd floor outdoor balcony so we had front row seats to the sights and sounds of Baños. The restaurant had live music, decent food, craft beer, and nice views for people watching. Just a great setting for a Sunday afternoon.
One thing that stood out while walking around the town is the sheer number of businesses offering tours. It seemed like there was at least 50 tour operators in the central plaza alone! I’m sure most were legit but some did look shady AF. I would recommend that you book your excursions through your hotel. And on that note, we had ours scheduled for early the next day. We would be chasing waterfalls in the morning.
WATERFALLS GALORE
Baños is known for it’s natural hot springs and pools but there are also lots of waterfalls in the area. A couple of small ones can be found in town but to get to the really nice ones you have to trek about an hour and a half out of the city and take the ruta de las Cascadas (Waterfalls Highway). This route will take you by more than a dozen waterfalls and you can spend as much or as little time as you want on each.
Due to heavy rainfall the week prior to our arrival, the main road was washed out in certain areas. This caused city officials to block traffic to make repairs to the road. Which then caused major delays to everyone (us 😩) trying to get on the waterfalls highway. We decided to improvise and I told our driver to take us directly to the main event instead. The Cascada El Pailon would be our first stop.
Cascada El Pailon del Diablo – Which entrance?
Our driver (also our guide) took us to the newer top of the waterfall entrance. There are 2 entrances (one at the top with better views and easier access and one at the bottom that goes behind the waterfall). I had read online prior to our visit that it was a steep wet climb to get to the bottom. My wife has bad knees and our kids didn’t want to get wet so up top it was.
We explored and took pics near the entrance before paying the small fee (a few bucks per person) to enter. Our guide was telling us folklore stories about the devil’s waterfall and the river it feeds. Different spooky shit about some troll that’s seen in the water and there being YouTube videos out there showing it, etc… It was all entertaining and we all got a kick out of it.
He also would stop periodically on the hike to the waterfall to tell us about the different trees and plants we were seeing. The short trail was winding and at times had a nice little incline but was fairly easy for the most part. We walked through the forest/jungle mix until we reached an opening and got to the suspension bridge that takes you to the waterfall.
Suspension Bridge reminds me of the movies.
Once we got to the bridge you could see and really hear the waterfall. We all took turns taking pictures and videos from the bridge and it reminded us of the ones you see in the movies. It would sway and rock as you walked across and I was imagining it breaking on one side before we made it to the end 😮.
Cascada El Pailon del Diablo – Otherworldly
Otherworldly is what came to my mind when I first laid eyes on the waterfall and surrounding area. It looked like a scene straight out of a Sci-Fi film, or Lord of the Ring, or Game of Thrones. It was powerful and beautiful and well, see and hear for yourself.
We walked down to the last viewing platform to get as close to the waterfall as possible. Mother Nature in all her glory before us and we were taking it all in. I especially loved that we had her all to ourselves for a good 30 minutes before other tourists arrived. It was a special moment that we will all remember.
Mega Adventure Park Rio Blanco
After leaving el pailon we made a couple of more stops on the way back to town. Our guide knew the waterfall highway like the back of his hand and made sure we hit the highlights. One of those being the Mega Adventure Park Rio Blanco. This place is an adrenaline junkie’s dream spot. I linked the website because the options were crazy and I would have to write a whole post on all that they had to offer.
But as I stated before, I’m not about that adrenaline life. So we kept it simple and did the bridge with the see through glass and also took a little cable car across. My girls (wife included) are not fond of being at heights and my boy and I didn’t want to push the envelope or exclude them. So, we settled on the 2 activities but man that ziplining looked pretty sweet when they flew by us.
La Casa del Arbol
After a quick lunch, our next stop was La Casa del Arbol! We made our way back to Baños and started heading slowly up the road that takes you to the top of the hill that this famous treehouse sits on. It was a long winding scenic drive that took 30 minutes but seemed to go by quicker than that because our driver was telling us stories about the last volcano eruption nearby. The road ended near the very top and our guide informed us that there was still a little hike to reach it, so off we went.
The short hike gets a little steep in some spots so I recommend taking it slow and taking breaks to catch your breath. Remember, you’re at over 8,500 ft above sea level! There’s no need to rush, that swing ain’t going nowhere 🤣. Once you do get to the top, it all becomes worth it.
Incredible views aside, the thing that struck and impressed me the most were the gardens up there. Beautiful flowers everywhere and the scent they gave off matched with the altitude gave you a pleasant feeling. There were nice viewing areas along with benches to sit down and relax as well.
The swing at the end of the world!
Okay I’ll admit that when I saw pictures of this swing on the internet prior to our visit, I thought the images were captured in a way to create the illusion that you were going over a cliff if you fell. I was wrong. Your ass is definitely going to disappear if the swing breaks or you somehow fall off. Hey I’m just keeping it real fam. Aside from that, boy these swings are a blast!
Before you get to the famous swing at the end of the world, they have some practice ones set up so you can get a feel for what the real one is like. Here you can try out your poses and those taking the pictures can get some trial runs on different angles. You’ll also have a little more margin for error as these swings aren’t as close to the edge as the main ones on la casa del arbol are.
Once you’ve got your swinging moves down pat it’s time to do them on the main swings. Sit in the chair, put your seat belt on, walk back as far as you can, and take off!
25th ANNIVERSARY – Day 3 in Baños
Our third day in Baños was very special to us. It was after all, the whole reason we went on this epic Ecuador adventure. My wife and I celebrated our 25th wedding anniversary on this journey and we got to share this magical trip with our kids. This called for a little splurging and we checked out of La Casa Verde and went a little down the road to a fantastic Spa Resort to celebrate our milestone.
Where to stay? – SAMARI SPA RESORT
From start to finish the Samari Spa Resort treated my family and I like distinguished guests. We arrived around noon which was a little early, but they allowed us to check in. Our kid’s room was ready so they went to theirs but we had to wait an hour and half for ours. We didn’t really mind at all. After all, the Samari manager gave us free drinks at the bar while we waited. I don’t mind if I have another one 😉.
We had a couple of drinks and (okay, a few), booked our couples massage, and took a stroll around the resort’s 10+ acres. The grounds were well kept and there were even walking trails on the property. The layout of the place was beautiful with flowers everywhere and stone walkways. Very picturesque and we could see why it was a favorite for wedding picture taking.
They gave us a cabin way in the back of the property away from others which I thought was funny. I mean, I had informed them it was our special 25th anniversary but we weren’t going to be that loud. Anyway, the suite cabin was absolutely charming and everything we had expected. Real wood burning fireplace, jacuzzi, rose petals on the bed, flowers, and chocolate were all waiting for us. They really went all out with setting the mood.
Our epic Ecuador vacation finished on an excellent note.
We had a full course dinner with our kids, popped a couple of bottles of wine, let everyone partake in the drinks/celebrating and laughed the entire time. Just when I thought things couldn’t get better, Samari management had the candles and fireplace lit in our cabin suite while we were finishing our dessert. They would be on when we walked in. These people were on top of it. It was such a great night and one we’ll never forget.
We checked out late the following day and had our driver take us back to Quito. Back to where it all started.
IN THE SHADOW OF ECUADOR’S MAGNIFICENT STRATOVOLCANO COTOPAXI
Sleeping in the shadow of Ecuador’s magnificent stratovolcano Cotopaxi is a surreal experience that will seem like a dream until you wake up the next morning and see it towering outside your window. When building my Ecuador trip itinerary I wanted to have a couple of days to just chill in between our Quito and Baños stays. I wanted amazing views, solitude, and relaxation and the Cotopaxi region delivered that in spades.
Hacienda Los Mortiños
After a full day of travel and then 3 days in Quito doing daily tours, waking up early, and pretty much keeping a schedule, it was time to downshift for a couple of days. I chose the Hacienda Los Mortiños property specifically because it’s practically in the middle of nowhere and fit the bill for what I was looking for. When searching for a place to stay that was close to the Cotopaxi volcano I came across the Hacienda and was struck by how near it seemed online. The picture on their website looked too good to be true but as you can see from my own shot above, it’s the real deal!
Located just outside the north (El Pedregal) entrance to Cotopaxi National Park, this cozy hacienda is perfectly situated for both active travelers and those looking to just chill (like us). Both of our rooms were on the second floor of the back house and had incredible views of the volcano and surrounding area. But besides the great views, the entire property was legit badass, well taken care of, and well run!
The views and surroundings were therapy.
Sometimes it’s best to just let people see what you’re talking about. Check out these short video clips and pics I put together.
Pretty nice right? The game plan was to do nothing the first day and for a while the weather was playing its part. When we arrived it was cold (about 38 degrees F), overcast, and it started to rain. Hacienda staff turned on the fireplaces for us and just about everyone took a nap against that backdrop. But this being Ecuador, the weather did a 180 a few hours later and remaining inside was no longer an option.
Hiking and Mountain Biking Trails
The clouds began to clear in the late afternoon, sun started to come out, and I was ready to explore. We got dressed and headed out on one of the many trails that lead away from the property. Of course I chose one that got us closer to Cotopaxi. After making the small hike up the hill, we got some pretty cool shots of the volcano and several volcanic rocks that were spread out all over the area. Seeing the rocks was a reminder that this is an active volcano whose last eruption was only 6 years ago.
As the sun started to dip, the mountain bikers started to arrive in their 4 wheel drives. La Hacienda Los Mortiños also caters to bikers and campers on their grounds. They made their way up the trails, pitched their tents, and started their camp fires. Mountain bike riding (and cycling) is big in Ecuador. We later found out that there have been some recent Ecuador biking/cycling winners in important worldwide races. This has increased the popularity of the sports in the country.
Horseback riding in Cotopaxi National Park
The following day we slept in, had breakfast, and booked a horseback riding expedition that would take us into the national park. I wanted to get closer to the volcano. The horses are trained and live on the hacienda grounds. After a short walk to the stables and safety briefing we selected our horses. All riders are provided a helmet and given basic riding instructions and commands. We saddled up and were on our way towards the park.
As we entered park grounds, the weather changed on us, going from mostly sunny to cloudy with cold light wind. Having been in Ecuador 5 days now, we knew what to expect and came prepared with windbreakers and dressed in layers. Our guide led us through some hills, across streams, and grounds covered in volcanic rock from the last explosion. He would pause at points of interest and explain the lay of the land to us or tell stories about the land we were on. The whole ride was informative and entertaining.
I had a close call with my horse almost dumping me off at the top of a baby hill. He took off running up and caught me off guard causing me to lose my balance for a couple of seconds. I was like whoa mf’er, whoa… You can see it happen in the clip below. What’s funny about the ordeal is my son unable to contain his laughter in the video. he’s cracking up behind me 🤣.
Mother Nature did not cooperate at night.
Because of it’s remote location and having a national park in front of it, the Hacienda Los Mortinos is also great place to stargaze. To me that was one of the selling points to get me to book. But the weather did not cooperate during our stay and we had overcast skies both nights we stayed. There are some amazing pics online for you to see for yourself. Not only is the Milky Way fully visible from the hotel but due to it’s proximity to the equator, you can view constellations in both the Northern AND Southern Hemispheres.
I recommend trying to book around a new moon for the darkest sky possible and then with a little luck you will get to see it all! Since stargazing was off the table we decided to have some local beers for our nightcaps. I gotta admit that it was a good time drinking with our 2 older kids (20 &19). Back home we’d only share a beer at big family get togethers with everyone spread out with different relatives but here it was just us and the bonding, silliness, and roasting was truly memorable not just here but the entire trip.
HOW TO GET TO THE HACIENDA FROM QUITO
According to Google maps you can make it in under 2 hours in the early afternoon. Add 30-40 minutes if you leave Quito during the morning rush hour like we did. Also keep in mind that about 60% of your time on this commute will be spent on the roads between Machachi and Porvenir. Easily the worst roads I’ve ever been on. I swore we were going to get flats at least 4 times on this stretch. The jacked up roads of Houston, Texas don’t have anything on them. Check your driver’s tires and make sure he has a spare. And pray too.
THINGS TO KNOW // SUMMARY
- Elevation is 11,978 ft above sea level. That’s 2,628 ft higher than Quito! Monitor yourself for altitude issues.
- Only breakfast comes with your paid hotel stay. Lunch and Dinner are on you.
- There are lots of things to do at Cotopaxi National Park from walking around lakes/lagoons to climbing to the top of the Volcano. You can do as much or as little as you’d like here. Just a beautiful park and area.
- The roads are perfect if you’re coming from the south entrance! We took the main road through the national park on our way to Banos and it was night and day difference. Even seen some wild horses along the way.
And on that note, as Bill Belichick would probably say, “We’re on to Baños”.
IT ALL STARTS IN QUITO! THE GATEWAY TO ECUADOR
Whether you’re visiting the Galapagos islands, Amazon jungle, or exploring the highlands, it all starts in Quito, the gateway to Ecuador! It is the second highest capital city in the world and sits at 9,350 ft above sea level. Quito is also one of the first World Cultural Heritage Sites declared by UNESCO and your flight to Ecuador will more than likely arrive at UIO (Mariscal Sucre International Airport). And that’s where I’ll begin part one of our 10 day journey in Ecuador.
GETTING THERE // IAH to UIO
I was able to score a deal through Aeromexico for about $2K for all 5 of my family members ($400 per person RT). This included all taxes, checked luggage, and all those other nickle and dime charges! As they say in the Godfather, “it was an offer I couldn’t refuse” and I jumped on it with a quickness. Flights in June/July to Ecuador normally run around double that amount from Houston with short layover and triple for direct flights so I knew I had to pull the trigger.
AVOID MEXICO CITY
Speaking of layover cities, try to avoid Mexico City at all costs. The customs/arrival area is a complete and total nightmare. Shit reminded me of Gladiator and Hunger Games combined. There was no order or control as far as where lines ended and it was all one big convoluted mess. They also make every single person go through customs and had the transfer only passenger area closed off. I have no idea why they did this (no it wasn’t covid related because they don’t even review any covid docs) and it only added to the confusion and mass number of people. All their machines were down and the arrival area is tiny for a city that’s one of the largest in the world. This was built for a Laredo size city, not Mexico City.
To add insult to injury, when we finally did arrive to the front to have our travel docs reviewed by their customs, they took me into the back room because my name set off some red flags. Apparently there are some bad hombres with my name and they had to make sure I wasn’t part of a cartel. This took about 45 minutes to clear up and we almost missed our connecting flight. So in short:
- Avoid Mexico City layover
- Don’t name your kids Jose!
Mariscal Sucre International Airport
We all breathed a sigh of relief when we arrived at UIO and seen how organized their international arrivals processing area was. There would be no repeat of the fiasco in DF. By the time we retrieved our luggage and exited the baggage claim area it was now close to midnight. As with all trips that have me leave the airport in the middle of the night, I booked us rooms at a hotel as close to the airport as possible. I don’t like driving between 12am – 4:30 am here at home so I’m sure as hell not going to travel with my whole family to another city’s downtown (especially in a foreign country).
It had been a long day of travel and we were ready to get some sleep. Our shuttle driver Gonzalo was all smiles and had a great attitude as he drove us to the Holiday Inn Quito Airport property. The great service and warm welcome we received our first night in Quito exemplified the type of hospitality we would receive everywhere we went in Ecuador.
WHERE TO STAY & WHAT TO DO // CENTRO HISTORICO (HISTORIC DISTRICT) – DAY 1
I always recommend that first time visitors stay in a city’s historic district. Especially when visiting an older city such as Quito with it’s rich history and background. We decided on making the Friends Hotel & Rooftop hostel our home base for the next 3 days. This property is centrally located and managed by the nicest and most helpful staff. Not to mention you’ll have great views from your room and some really good daily breakfast offerings.
GET ACCLIMATED AND TAKE IT EASY
Remember those 9.350 ft. I mentioned earlier? Yeah, you’re going to feel that now. That’s why for your “official” day one, you should only book a walking tour and nothing else. We had the absolute fortune of booking our tour with Johanna from the Friends Hotel. Not only does she manage the hotel but she also does the 3 hour walking tours! Trust me when I tell you fam that if you visit Quito and stay at Friends, then you need to ask for her by name. My family (especially my kids) grew fond of her during our stay and she was an absolute joy to be around. I recommend having this booked prior to arrival.
THE WALKING TOUR
This paid tour is scheduled for 3 hours but can easily go over depending on the amount of stops and pace. While it may seem like a long time, it doesn’t feel like it at all due to the variety of places we visited and wonderful stories our guide told. She let us linger and move around at will and nudged us when it was time to go. We also made some side stops along the way to buy ice cream, small items from street vendors, and I even got fitted and bought myself a real Ecuador hat (popularly known as the Panama hat).
Quito is a hilly city so you will definitely get a workout during this tour, especially when walking uphill. You will need to monitor yourself to see how your own body is handling the change in altitude. There are many different things you can take/eat/drink to help you deal with it if you are having issues. We were offered various fruit based drinks, chocolates, and teas. Try them all until you find one that works. To me personally it’s coca leaf tea but it wasn’t offered everywhere like when we visited Cusco, Peru. Now that tea 100% works every single time so order it or buy it if you see it!
Places covered by tour:
- Various plazas and activities that take place there.
- Magnificent historical churches
- Important government buildings
- Public transportation routes and depots
- Restaurants, street food, and other points of interest for your stay
Our tour guide Johanna 
My family posing on a picturesque street. 
One of many great churches in the historic district 
5 O keeping an eye on things. There was plenty all over so we felt safe. 
I absolutely love all the Spanish style plazas. 
Gotta get you an official Ecuador hat! 
Me and my boy in front of the white house. 
Wife and I enjoying Quito.
CHURCHES ARE THE HIGHLIGHT
You don’t have to be religious to appreciate the beauty of churches, mosques, synagogues, etc… To me the churches were the absolute highlight of this walking tour. The stunning interior of the Church of la Compañía de Jesús and magnificent views from the gothic Basilica del Voto National was top tier. The history behind these great buildings is equally as fascinating and worth reading about. But for my short attention span peeps, here are a few pics.
Church of la Compañía de Jesús 
2 hours into our walking tour Johanna tells us, “that church on the hill is our last stop, it’s close by” 🤣 
View from the top of Basílica del Voto Nacional 
Basílica del Voto Nacional 
Impressive grounds 
Interior 
What a view! 
Another view 
Me and my girls after our climb to the top.
And that is the end of day one. You really don’t want to do more than a walking tour on your first day unless you’re not feeling any altitude affects. We were all tired and asked our guide to take us a to a restaurant nearby, had a late lunch with beers, and called it a day. We made arrangements with Johanna for day trips out of Quito for the next 2 days and settled in. Cue the Ice Cube, today was good day.
OTAVALO MARKET (PLAZA DE LOS POCHOS) // QUISATO SUNDIAL // CAYAMBE – DAY 2
We had overcast skies this day so our pictures don’t pop like day one but this day trip was a very good learning experience for our kids. Our new guide for the next 2 days would be Cristian and he was equally informative, knowledgeable, and entertaining as Johanna was. Back to back great tour guides, we were on a roll! We had breakfast at 7 am and Cristian picked us up at 8 in his SUV.
Getting out of Quito was a bit of a task but it was cool seeing the morning hustle and bustle of the people going on about their daily lives. We used this time to get to know our new guide and learn more about where we were heading. Cristian is a very experienced guide (about 10 years) and would drop all sorts of facts about his beautiful country. We covered a wide range of topics and by the time we got to our first stop, time seemed to have flown by.
Bizcochos con Queso de Hoja in Cayambe
Cayambe is the perfect pit stop to start your day trip. Here you will learn (and taste) about the famous breakfast pastry and the delicious fresh cheese that you pair it with that this town is known for. You add a layer of chocolate/caramel to the bizcocho and then unroll the fresh cheese and place it on top of the chocolate and then devour it. Was delicious! We ended up buying some to go and had them with our coffee every morning the rest of our trip. Also bought plenty of Ecuadorian chocolate as well.
The true equator – Quitsato Sundial
Our next stop was the Quitsato Sundial which is a giant monument literally in the Middle of the World and located exactly on the Equatorial Line. It is said to be the true equator line and not the commercial/touristy Mitad del Mundo which is close by. If you have a gps it is supposed to read all zeros at this sundial but we didn’t have one so cannot verify. Here we learned some interesting facts about the different lines of the solstices and equinoxes, and how to read the hours of the day using the shadow of the sun off the sundial. It made sense when the guy was explaining it right there and then but I don’t think I could ever show anyone how it works, lol.
OTAVALO MARKET
It was now time to get our shopping on and put our bargaining skills to the test. Our final stop of the day was the indigenous market in Otavalo, known locally as the plaza de los pochos. This large outdoor market had all sorts of arts and crafts, local food, and regional clothing. Our kids were in culture shock as they had never been to any market like this and were getting upset with me because I would never take the first price offered. I was trying to explain to them that this is what goes on in these type of markets and that you negotiate the best deal. I think I got through to 2 of them 😁.
After a couple of hours in the market, we loaded up on souvenirs and headed back to Quito. One tip to share is to bring plenty of cash. No one accepts credit cards in the plaza. The cool thing is that the official currency of Ecuador is the US dollar so stop at any ATM prior to arriving and you’ll be okay. Try to bring small bills ($1, $5, $10) if you can. Also, try to visit the market on Saturdays. We went on a Wednesday but everyone says Saturday is the must visit day where the market doubles in size and there is usually entertainment as well.
TELEFERIQO // ITINAN MUSEUM // MITAD DEL MUNDO – DAY 3
The weather pattern during our entire stay alternated from mostly sunny to overcast every other day. And today we would be blessed with just perfect weather for viewing Quito from 13,000 ft above sea level! We left our hotel at 9 am and headed straight for the TeleferiQo to be at the gondola lift station right when they opened (10am). We’re glad we scheduled this excursion on day 3 in Quito and that our bodies already had 2 1/2 days to get acclimated to high altitude because we were about to take it up a notch!
Gondola and Hike to the top
Once we made the ascent to the top of the lift, there was still some hiking to do to reach the viewing platforms and swings. So up we went, slowly climbing ever so higher.
After you reach the top the incredible views make it all worth while. It’s so peaceful and quiet when you’re that high up in the sky. You just hear the light wind and your own breathing. Well that and our kids laughing up a storm and posing for like a gazillion pics & videos for their own personal memories. It was fun swinging on the swings with them and watching them play with the Alpacas. For the more adventurous there are several hikes to various peaks you can take from this point but our views were more than enough for us.
ITINAN MUSEUM
Now these are the type of museums that we like to visit. Fun, interactive, and just overall a good time to be had by all. We spent about 1 1/2 hours here and it was plenty of time to learn about and participate in the science experiments. The hosts were very cheerful and funny and kept everyone involved. And not to brag but your man here balanced the egg vertically on the nail on the very first try 😎.
You will also learn about some indigenous tribes from Ecuador and where/how they live. Towards the end of that portion of the tour they demonstrate and show some real shrunken heads. Our kids were trippin out on that part. I thought it was pretty cool.
MITAD DEL MUNDO
The last stop of the day was the Equatorial monument known as Mitad del Mundo. Now there is a whole bunch of things to do at this location but my family was tired and sun burned by this point in the day. Add the fact that we hadn’t eaten since breakfast and the weather had changed to windy & getting more cloudy by the minute and it was the perfect storm to call it a day after taking pics and walking around for a bit. I was outnumbered 🤷♀️.
After leaving Mitad del Mundo we went straight to get some food. Pollo at a local fast food joint called GUS was on the menu. We grubbed with our guide Cristian and made arrangements for him to drive us to Machachi/Cotopaxi region the following day. That is where part 2 of our 10 day Ecuador adventure continued.
QUITO WRAP UP* LESSONS LEARNED* USEFUL INFO
- If you land close to midnight, be safe and stay close to the airport that night. Make your move the next morning in daylight.
- Ecuador currency is US dollars. Try to bring small bills with you.
- The sun is extremely strong! Wear sunblock daily! The temperature never went above 65 degrees during our visit and we still got sunburned.
- While you can save some money using public transportation to all of the places I wrote about, the amount of time you will use up is just not worth it unless you are spending a month there. Hire a private guide and you will have him/her the entire day!
- On that note, I highly recommend Cristian Portilla. He is a complete professional and very knowledgeable of not just Quito but all of Ecuador (including the Galapagos Islands.) His website is www.journeyecuadorec.com
- Johanna from the Friends Rooftop property is a gem of a guide. Just tremendous customer service.
- Get your tours done early! The weather seems to always get dreary by late afternoon.
PROVEN COPING STRATEGIES FOR LONG FLIGHTS
There’s long flights and then THERE IS LONG FLIGHTS. Reminds me of that scene in the Crocodile Dundee movie where Michael Dundee and his girlfriend are accosted by some thugs and one of them pulls a knife (switchblade). The startled girlfriend tells Michael to cooperate with him because he has a knife and Mike responds amused with the now classic line, “that’s not a knife, THIS is a knife”, as he pulls out his huge machete looking blade. These proven coping strategies are for LONG FLIGHTS (over 8 hours long).
I’ve flown on 4 of the top ten longest commercial flights in the world (as of June 2021). All of them over 16 hours nonstop! That’s an awfully long time to be on a plane cooped up like a pollo and you need to have a plan ahead of time to fill all that time. Preparing yourself for these type of long haul flights is essential so that you can focus more on your destination and not the the time spent in the air. I’ll guide you through some of the methods that have helped me throughout the years.
GET YOUR MIND RIGHT
You just booked that dream trip to Europe or Asia and are making all these grand plans and building the ultimate itinerary for your destination and then it hits you. Damn, I have to endure how many hours in the air!? And that right there is mistake number one. Don’t look at the long flight hours as something to dread or endure or any other doom & gloom adjective. Instead change your frame of mind and think of it as time to finally do something you’ve put off or wanted to do. I’m sure you’ve put off one of these because you didn’t have time or have been too busy:
- Catch up on your favorite tv series or movies that you’ve been wanting to watch.
- Finally read/finish that book that you bought and has been sitting on your nightstand.
- Clean and organize your laptop desktop, folders, emails, etc…
- Getting your cellphone in order (deleting all texts, emails, pictures, and videos that are not needed anymore and just taking up space on your phone).
- Writing in your journal.
- Writing that letter to your significant other or family member.
You get the idea. You’ll finally be in one spot with nowhere to go so make the best use of that time to do things that you just haven’t been able to get around to.
DON’T PANIC AND PLAY THE WHAT IF GAME
While it’s tempting and probably natural to start thinking of all the things that could go wrong, don’t! Don’t start wondering about how heavy the plane is at take off with fuel, luggage, and people onboard. That fat dude in the next aisle isn’t going to be the tipping point difference on whether or not the plane gets off the ground. Another disaster scenario that people play in their mind is “what if we have engine problems, where are we going to land if we’re over water/mountains/desert, etc.?” Relax. The plane is going to take off just fine and you’re not going to have to eat big boy while struggling to survive in the Andes.
Take a deep breath and clear your thoughts of those type of images. Your pilots are all highly trained professionals and you’re in good hands. You’re going to land at your destination and in one piece. Get ahold of yourself and think about where you’re going and why. Replace those dreaded “what if?” scenarios with “I can’t wait to do (fill in the blank) when we land!” Those pleasant thoughts will soon take over and the good vibes will return in no time.
TRULY DISCONNECT
Why in the world would you want to pay for airplane wifi service to get on social media or check emails? Makes no damn sense. You already spend too much time working and/or on social media, take a real break and disconnect. Long flights are perfect for resetting your mindset and taking a mini hiatus from the daily grind. What your friend ate at that restaurant or that 1,283 picture of your cousin’s kid will still be there. You’re not going to get extra pay for answering emails mid-flight. Turn that shit off! There will be plenty of time for that when you get back. Switch it up and I promise you’ll be the better for it.
THE PHYSICAL PART
Getting in the right frame of mind for long flights is one half of it. The other is physical and getting your body prepared. No I’m not going to recommend some type of exercise regime or yoga booty or anything like that. My suggestions are a lot more practical 😊. They revolve around eating, drinking, what to wear, and sleeping both before the flight and during. Trust me on this, I’ve got my share of stories and lessons learned that I drew from to come up with these suggestions.
DRINKING (DO’S AND DONT’S)
You can absolutely have those drinks at the airport and during the early part of the flight. Hell, I encourage them. But! In moderation of course. Remember, you’re not on a short 3 hour flight to LAX or the Caribbean. You can pound the liquor back on those flights, put on one movie, and keep the party going when you land. Not on overseas flights. Especially if you’re flying to Asia or Africa, or to Europe from the west coast. If you don’t like being hungover on dry land, you’re really not going to like it on a plane sitting in the same upright position with strangers looking at you shaking their heads at you.
If you are a drinker I recommend having a few at the airport to calm the nerves (if you have any) and loosen you up for your journey. A couple of more are okay after the flight is at cruising altitude and before dinner is served but I would cap it off at that. You all know what happens when you break that seal and keep drinking. You’re going to be getting up every half hour to use the restroom. And nobody likes that person who keeps getting out of their seat constantly. Go easy, get a little buzz, have your dinner and call it a night.
EATING
Now this is super important and most people never think about what they eat before/during a long flight and their bowel movement schedules until it’s too late. Don’t be getting squeamish on me, we have to talk about this. There is nothing worse than standing in the aisle behind 3-4 people waiting on your turn for the restroom y te estas cagando (you’ve really got to go). Especially if for the most part, it can be avoided.
How you ask? It’s simple.
- Watch what you eat the day before and the day of your flight. We all know our own bodies and what time of day we usually go. You know what kind of food messes you up. Whatever that is don’t have it!
- Make yourself go right before the flight. I don’t care what it takes, make it happen. Get it all out of your system before boarding.
- Don’t be eating everything that is served on the plane. The food isn’t that good anyway so try to control yourself.
Follow these simple steps and you shouldn’t have any issues on this front. However, one must be prepared in case things still go sideways. I always carry some Pepto Bismol or Immodium tablets everywhere I travel. You have to stay ready and vigilant. Oh and don’t forget the baby wipes! Don’t be buying cheap ones either. The thicker the better (insert the obligatory “that’s what she said”).
SLEEPING
Getting in as many hours of sleep as possible the week before your big trip is one of the most overlooked proven coping strategies for long flights. Unless you’re one of those people that can crash out anywhere/anytime, you aren’t getting much sleep on these kind of flights. Don’t be pulling all nighters the day before. Stay hydrated, go to bed early, and get as much rest as possible leading up to take off day.
WEAR THE RIGHT CLOTHES
I’m well aware that there used to be a time when people got all dressed up to fly and that’s all fine and dandy for your short flights. But when it comes to these long overnight flights, comfort should be priority number one! Loose or stretchable material is the way to go. Whatever you decide to wear, it should be comfortable to move around in and not make you miserable after a few hours. Remember, you will not only be in these clothes for the duration of the flight but also the 3 hours before departure and then customs clearance, baggage claim, and travel to hotel time. That could mean up to 24 hours in the same outfit!
AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST, HYGEINE!
Which brings me to one of the most important proven coping strategies for long flights. Don’t be a dirty bastard. No, seriously. It should go without saying but you’re sharing a very close space with strangers for a long period of time. You want to make sure you’re at the bare minimum, clean! If you’re clean and smell good then you feel completely comfortable taking off your shoes while seated and moving around in your area. Shower a few hours before your flight and make sure your clothes are washed correctly with nice smelling fabric softener. If you look and smell good then you feel good which is a great starting point to enjoy these long flights.
So there you have it, my tips for making the best of those overseas non-stop flights. And now that you know how to handle them, check out my post on how to score one of these for almost free. And remember, getting there is part of your adventure story!
VIVID SYDNEY FESTIVAL IS RETURNING!
The Vivid Sydney Festival is returning in 2023! You should start making plans now to experience this wonderful festival of light, music, and art. Next year’s festivities begin 26 May and run through 17 June 2023. It would be a perfect trip to start the summer on a great note!
We were fortunate to have visited Australia in 2019 (see 9 Perfect Days In Australia) while the Vivid Sydney Festival was going on and were mesmerized by all the lights, shows, and energy that was all around us. Seeing the Sydney Opera House light up with not just lights but all sorts of awesome visual effects and the Bridge constantly changing colors was legit cool. I’ll go over which areas were our favorites from that visit.
Winter Camp (Barangaroo) – MARRI DYIN
I’m not saving the best for last. I’m starting out with the most badass exhibit of the festival. Her name is Marri Dyin (which means Great Woman) and she was not just our favorite but the crowd favorite as well. At almost 20 feet in height, this puppet makes a spectacular entrance and it is fascinating to watch her walk, talk, and move her arms. To everyone’s surprise she can even get down on her knees and hug people! Marri could be found in the Winter Camp that year but I’m not sure where she’ll be in 2023. Check out the Vivid website for details.
SAMSUNG ELECTRIC PLAYGROUND
Now here’s a place where you can spend a lot time time entertaining yourself with all the interactive activities spread out throughout the 32,000 square ft. events area. The dynamic light poles and light up dance floors were fun to play around with. We also felt like little kids trying out the Sky Walk and Infinity Slide. Of course, it didn’t hurt that we had a few cold ones before stepping foot inside 🤷♂️😁. The dizzying combination of lights and sound had us floating on cloud 9. This is must see if you visit!
COCKLE BAY WHARF
According to Wikipedia, “Cockle Bay is a small bay in inner-city Sydney, New South Wales, Australia. It is located on the western edge of the Sydney central business district. Cockle Bay is one of the bays in Darling Harbour, which opens into the much larger Sydney Harbour. The locality around the bay is also known as Darling Harbour.”
I don’t know about you but after reading that description, wtf. That’s too many bays and harbours for me to remember. So don’t pay attention to all that. Just remember the Cockle and you’ll be good to go. This area is lined with restaurants and bars and is a great spot to watch the lit up boats and yachts. They also have this giant transformer type exhibit that lights up and blasts loud music periodically that was a major hit with all the little kids out and about.
CIRCULAR QUAY
The ultimate spot to watch the lights and the throngs of people. During the day this was one of my favorite places in all of Sydney but at night during the VIVID SYDNEY FESTIVAL, this quay really comes alive! I recommend trying to get an outdoor table (if you can find one) at one of the restaurants by the opera house. You’ll have the perfect views to take in the experience.
WHERE TO STAY FOR VIVID SYDNEY FESTIVAL?
The Rocks. This area is walking distance to everything you want to see at the festival. Not only that but there’s tons of bars, restaurants, street food, markets, and much more. We stayed at the Rydges Sydney Harbour hotel. It’s got a great rooftop swimming pool that has excellent views of the Sydney Opera House and the Bridge. And did I mention that it’s close to everything!? This property is currently a Traveler’s Choice on TripAdvisor. Have a look, you won’t be disappointed. You can’t go wrong with any hotel choice in the Rocks.
I’m personally happy that the VIVID SYDNEY FESTIVAL IS RETURNING. It really is a great festival and we had such an amazing time every night while staying in Sydney. Check out the official website https://www.vividsydney.com/ for more information. You can use all the links on my resource page to start making your plans today!
Oh and one last thing. You can get beer with your pancakes in the Rocks. Yeah I know that was random, but I feel that this post wouldn’t be complete without sharing that 😎.
